The water was calm and the ocean looked like glass as I walked down the wharf with a coffee in hand looking forward to a day on the water, on a vessel taking me to a place that I’ve only heard of in stories from those who grew up here. I was headed to a place that fishermen know like the back of their hands. A place that calls them to return to their shanties time and time again. And a place where the sound of water brings peace to the soul. I was headed to the Tusket Islands.
At 10:15AM I climbed aboard the “John Harold” and eagerly waited for the boat to cast off. It was just under two hours to steam to the island that we disembarked, Deep Cove Island. I can tell you the steam passed in a blur of stories, chowder, rum and sun on my face. It was perfect.
Does the blue nose and rum mean I’m not a come-from-away anymore?
Typically, the “John Harold” docks at Big Tusket Island but instead we detoured to Deep Cove. It’s a small island with a few shanties, a smattering of sheep and stunning views. I left my phone with my husband as he took photos from one of the wharves and I wandered the island, unencumbered by technology. I wasn’t worried about getting photos of my own, knowing that my husband was capturing some was enough for me. And I knew as I climbed the hill for the 360 degree view that my mind would etch in those views there forever.
Watching the water from the crest of Deep Cove Island
I climbed to the crest of the hill on Deep Cove and sat there on a boulder that was peaking up through the ground. As I gazed out over the water and took in the smattering of other islands, my ears heard the gentle sound of song come up from the “John Harold”. It was the lyrics from Sonny’s Dream that fluttered up the hill and a few key lines seemed to fit perfectly with the day.
“Sonny lives on a farm, on a wide open space, where you can kick off your sneakers, and give up the race”
“And he watches the sea, from a room by the stairs, and the waves keep on rollin’, they’ve done that for years”.
Candle Box Island, Lighthouse lit in 1893
For quite some time I’ve been thinking of a vacation “off the grid” and while many of the Tusket Islands have power, it’s exactly the slowed down pace I’ve been seeking. The roll of the sea moves with the day and I felt like I could stare out and enjoy the view for an eternity. I mean, look at this view! All too soon I took myself back down the hill and back to the wharf to the “John Harold”. The steam back to Wedgeport passed to the sound of the ship cutting through the water intermixed with Simon LeBlanc singing about Bootleggers from Saulnierville to Upper, Upper, Upper Pubnico. As I stared out at the passing islands, mesmerized by the sun dancing on the water, I thought it’s no wonder the Tusket Islands call people back again and again. The Islands have their own Siren Song that beckons out to those who pass by. And I too am left dreaming about the next time I can return.
Departing Deep Cove Island… until next time.
